![]() With that in mind, here are the jumper settings and speeds: This will not change regardless of the speed you pick so you are left with 1-4 (red below) to set your new clock speed. Oriented just like seen in the photo, here is the jumper block: Now remember the notch on the blue block, this is pin/jumper number 1. If your G3 is a different clock speed, these jumpers will of course be different for you. The G3 used in this example is a 350MHz model. Remove the blue cap and turn it over, you should now be looking at something like this: Oh yeah! “SPEED/CTL”, it tells you exactly where to go to mess with the speed settings on this thing, isn’t old tech awesome?!. Now note the fun print on the board next to the jumper block: With that noted, go ahead and remove the sticker if present. Now even if you drop the blue cap and don’t remember in which orientation it came off, you can put it back the right way. ![]() This indicates the first pin in the jumper block that is hiding under the blue cap. One corner has a bump on the side and the number “1” printed n the board under it. There are systems where the jumper block is under a white cap but the rest of this article will use blue.īefore you remove the sticker and void your warranty, which may be almost about to run out at this point anyway. This sticker may be missing on your G3 but typically if it has never been removed and put back, the original glue is still holding this sticker firmly in place. Next to it is a blue block with a “VOID warranty if seal is broken” sticker over it. Open the Mac and locate the CPU heat sink. This was the first overclock I ever did back in 1999. Overclocking a G3 B&W is remarkably easy.
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